Caddo Lake…Swamp Thang, you make my heart sing!

Sitting on a long dock extending over Caddo Lake, I’m listening to music on my phone. Actually, just one song. The Eagles’ old hit, Seven Bridges Road. (Listen here.)

The moving melody of their acapella harmonies give me chills. Somehow it fits this haunting landscape. Like the person featured in the song, I, too, had traveled ‘Southward as you go’ to a rural place with ‘moss-covered trees.’ And couldn’t get enough of this wild, mysterious scene.

Bald cypress trees stood in the water, like tall stoic beings watching over the swamp. All was still. Alligators and snakes were hidden away–lurking somewhere beneath the floating cover of duckweed, sneaking toward their prey. Feathery moss, dangling from trees, fluttered in the breeze. So quiet. Eerie. Serene.

 

Suddenly, silence is broken with a piercing cry.

The startling sound comes from a Red-tailed Hawk, common in this swamp. But I can’t spot him.

Instead, a graceful Great Egret flies into view, swoops down, and perches on a root. He hardly blends in. His snowy white plumage is striking even from a distance.  Standing perfectly still, he hovers over dark water looking for supper, stalking frogs, insects and fish.

 

 

Caddo Lake

Stretching across the border of northern Texas and Louisiana, Caddo Lake is a large 26,800-acre body of water comprised of swampy wetlands, sloughs, streams, soggy islands, and bayous. The interconnected waterways are home to a great diversity of plants, birds and fish.

Snowy Egrets are just one of the 216 bird species that live here among the ancient 400-year old cypress trees, in one of the largest bald cypress forests in the world. Trophy-sized largemouth bass, catfish, crappies and 74 other species swim in these tannin-tinged waters, which vary between 2 and 20 feet deep. The lake’s largest fish is alligator gar. And of course there are reptiles! The alligator snapping turtle is perhaps the strangest of the lot, which include water snakes, gators, and newts.

The abundance of wildlife and surreal scenery draw fishermen, birders, photographers and nature enthusiasts alike. Year round.

Tourists keen on staying in the midst of the action will want to stay in Uncertain, Texas. (Mooringsport, LA, the only other town directly on the shores of Caddo Lake, lacks the epic scenery.)

 

History of Caddo Lake

Once upon a time, from 800-1835, Native American Caddo Indians inhabited this region. Living peacefully on the shores of bayous, marshes and streams, they hunted and fished. They paddled cypress dug-out canoes along the Red River to travel between three ceremonial sites within a 175 mile radius. But slowly their homes disappeared under water. First, in 1806, a massive 100-mile long log jam blocked Red River. This Great Raft caused waters to rise, spill over and flood the forests and surrounding wetlands. The result was the creation of Caddo Lake. Then earthquakes  shifted the landscape in 1811. And again in 1812. The Caddo Indians dispersed 20 years later when the US government paid $80,000 for their flooded lands.

Steamboats

During the 1830’s, steamboats and paddleboats began traveling across Caddo Lake carrying cargo and passengers. Pilots relied on wooden post markers to navigate shallow waters in the labyrinth of confusing waterways. Steamboat travel flourished for 50 years, and nearby Jefferson, Texas was the 2nd busiest port in the nation. But in 1873, when the remaining logs from the Great Raft near Shreveport were removed, the water level dropped too low for ships to travel safely.

Oil Production

In 1910, Caddo Lake made history as the location of the world’s first over-water oil platform. Gulf Refining Company placed oil rigs in the water, on the Louisiana side, and extracted oil until the mid-1930s.

In 1942, Lyndon B. Johnson convinced the Army to build Longhorn Army Ammunition plant near Caddo Lake near his wife Lady Bird’s hometown in Karnack, Texas. The large facility of 415 buildings manufactured TNT for WWII, ammo for the Vietnam, and rocket missile motors for 55 years. After it closed, parts were deemed as a Superfund site by the EPA and extensive chemical cleanup was required.

Conservation

Today, conservation efforts protect Caddo Lake as a wildlife refuge. The days of being drilled, dynamited, dammed and polluted are in the distant past. But invasive species and newfangled ideas continue to threaten the lake.

One of the leading lobbyists that helped prevent Congress from dredging Big Cypress Bayou for barge traffic in 2000 was none other than Don Henley, singer-drummer of the Eagles. Growing up near here, he caught his first fish at Caddo Lake at age 8. Intrigued by its beauty, he returned often, claiming Caddo as ‘his church’ providing peace and spiritual nourishment. Having traveled the world with his band, he now resides here.

Don Henley founded the non-profit Caddo Lake Institute in 1992 to protect this special place. His team of accomplished scientists work with community groups to manage issues relating to the wetlands. They’ve also successfully re-introduced the world’s most ancient species, the American Paddlefish, back into Caddo Lake. This prehistoric fish lived 50 million years before dinosaurs!

(Check their website for info about adopting, tagging, naming, and personally releasing a Paddlefish.)

 

Why We Traveled to Caddo Lake

My friend, Donna, and I visited last November. We’d both been working full-time as speech therapists in different cities treating patients in nursing homes. After months and months of wearing the hot, claustrophobic protective layers everyday since Covid hit– plastic gowns, goggles, gloves, cloudy face shields, and muffling face masks, we were more than ready to ditch the gear and breathe freely in new surrounds. YES, it was time to meet up for our first foray back into travel.

Looking for inspiration, I came across images of this swamp by chance. And knew instantly that this would be the first stop on our 10 day itinerary.

What better way to escape than to immerse yourself in a starkly different landscape–a place with new sights, challenges and adventures? My mind couldn’t wander about work in this unfamiliar terrain. Exploring and photographing a swamp with gators, and snakes that could fall from trees, would demand my full attention! Luckily, my friend is always up for an adventure and agreed to this destination on the spot. (You plan it, I’ll go!)

We flew into the closest airport, Shreveport, Louisiana. Then rented a car, and drove about an hour west to reach our base in Uncertain, Texas. The drive was easy, paved, and had very little traffic. Crossing the border into Texas, we soon turned north off of Highway 43, and followed CR 2198 for 5 miles into Uncertain.

Caddo Lake was the perfect destination to escape the pandemic, news and social media for a much-needed break! Remote, tranquil, and safe. Spotty internet and phone reception allowed us to truly unplug for 3 glorious days.

 

Uncertain, Texas on Caddo Lake

The tiny town of Uncertain lies on the western shores of Caddo Lake on Big Cypress Bayou. Population? 89. The main drag, Cypress Drive, has two places to eat. A teensy takeaway BBQ Outpost and Shady Glade Cafe are open for breakfast and lunch. Uncertain’s small grocery store has been closed for over a year, so stock up before you arrive. It’s uncertain when… (yeah, I went there).

Incidentally, the name Uncertain comes from maps and charts. As steamboats travelled across the lake, depth soundings were recorded for steamboat pilots. Water levels around this area of Big Cypress fluctuated so often that “Uncertain” was recorded in pilot log books.

A variety of mom-and-pop resorts and cabins are available to rent around the shoreline. We stayed at the Spatterdock Cabins on fish-shaped Taylor Island, just up yonder. And loved it!

Dottie…a local legend

Dottie Smith Carter, the owner of Spatterdock Cabins, grew up here back when it was a wild, wild place. Her unusual childhood included all sorts of misadventures encouraged by her father, Beer Smith, who led by example.

Beer first hitchhiked to Caddo Lake at the age of 14 in 1918, and revisited often. He built a home on the banks of Taylor Island in 1948, built the Fly-N-Fish lodge and airstrip (visible on Cypress Drive), and was responsible for incorporating the town of Uncertain back in 1961.

Dottie’s book, The Fireball of Caddo Lake Beer Smith, is a fast entertaining read about the fascinating history of Caddo Lake (from 1907) and her own zany experiences. I devoured the book before I came, and was honored to meet her during my visit. In her early 80’s now, she still lives on the Spatterdock property where she grew up (2 cabins down) and is always busy creating something.

Her artistic touches are everywhere–from mosaics in the fireplace hearth to decorated VW Bugs you’ll see all over town. Guests are free to wander through her artsy garden of creations blending stained glass and mirrored mosaics with abandoned objects. Brilliant!

Our Spatterdock cabin

We stayed in Duckweed, which had plenty of room to spread out as it sleeps 5. The fireplace, pine paneling and overstuffed couch added a cozy feel, but my favorite part was the porch.

The large screened porch had a twin bed, dining set and rocking chairs that faced the lake. A painted floor map mural illustrated places to boat or kayak in Caddo Lake. Narrow passages have names like Whangdoodle Pass, Hoot Owl Gap, Stumpy Slough and Alligator Bayou.

Each of the six Spatterdock cabins have free kayaks, fire pits, and their own private boardwalk.

This was ours. And it was only steps away from our porch.

Our boardwalk extended over the swamp in a zigzag fashion, skirting giant cypress trees.

Spooky Night

That night, I decided to sleep on the porch. Despite being mid-November, the cabin felt warm. Fresh air coming through the screens paired with the sound of frogs and other swamp creatures lulled me to sleep.

Around 2am, a storm blew in. I woke to howling winds. Sitting up in bed, I looked outside. Shadowy Spanish moss moved eerily and erratically in the lamplight. Dark forms of the giant cypress trees stood motionless while leaves and moss blew all about. Temperatures dropped and an icy cold blast chilled my skin.

Something made a loud alarming call, caaaagh caaaaaaagh. Then slow sounds from a long wingspan swoosh… swoosh… swoosh... could be heard. I watched the silhouette of a blue heron flapping its wings as it flew by before disappearing in the swamp.

But the night felt so eerie, and primordial– that it could’ve been a tetradactyl flying overhead instead.

Then the rain came. Noisy, howling, sideways wind that blew rain into the porch. But I wasn’t going anywhere.

How often do you get to experience a spooky night on the edge of a swamp?

 

Magical Mornings on Caddo Lake

Donna and I booked our boat tours a couple months in advance. Our sunrise tour meeting place was 15-20 minutes west of Uncertain, in area called Pine Island. We met our guide John Winn, owner of Caddo Outback Tours before dawn. Climbing aboard his flat bottomed boat, we sat in cushy swivel seats and traveled down a long narrow channel offshoot from the Big Cypress Bayou.

After 20 minutes or so, we glided into this dreamy scene. Milky fog hugged the base of cypress trees and hovered over shallow water with mirrored reflections.

 

Peachy-pastel colors of sunrise greeted us with a new day.

 

We booked 2 sunrise tours and an afternoon tour with John. You pay a little extra for the early hour, but $120 per tour for two of us was totally worth it!

 

 

Another incredible morning…

Our second morning, I was thrilled to see even more fog! Pure luck.

Fog isn’t a given. But planning your trip for mid-November increases the odds. And if it’s cold enough for fog, don’t forget to pack a fleece, hat and gloves.

 

Guides know where to take guests… don’t wing it and try to kayak here. Those who do usually miss the fog unless they leave 2 hours before dawn. Even in a motor boat, the distance to reach the really cool parts of the swamp take time.

And don’t try to book a tour on the fly. Caddo only has 6 tour operators. Most tours are private (your group only) and get booked far in advance.

Guides also know how to navigate this maze! Some areas are so shallow that it’s impossible to use the motor or you risk getting stuck. Plus having a guide do all the work lets you sit back and take it all in… Thanks, John!

We didn’t see another soul except on day 2 when we were returning to the dock. We passed a tourist (with mounted cameras) just entering the narrow channel as we were leaving. Unfortunately, he was too late to see the swirling fog. It dissipates fairly quickly. You come all this way—get up early!

Afternoon Tour on Caddo Lake

We signed up for the afternoon-early evening tour that is marketed as the best time of day to see alligators. However, note that November is not a great month for sightings. Summer months are best, as the Autumn cold makes them snuggle deeper into their warm mucky mud.

(This was actually reassuring to learn for later kayaking excursions.)

Despite being late afternoon, around 4:30pm, the light was very harsh and contrasty for photography.

I spent much of the time shooting tight spaces with a longer lens instead.

 

And also took some video. One of my favorites (even though the lighting sucks) happened by pure chance!

Filming a wide scene, I aimed my lens at the exact spot where a Great Blue Heron was partially submerged. I never saw him. But as I hit record, he emerged from the water like a prehistoric creature from a gray lagoon, and flew off into the trees. You can watch the video in my istock library here.

Dusk…

Cypress trees in this swamp date back 400 years. Roots are often exposed. Marks near the base indicate the fluctuating water levels.

Wonder how often this happens? Someone snagged their fishing line. See the hook and red lure hanging from moss in a silvery tree?

 

The fading light evened out exposures, but was short lived.

 

How soon the darkness turned to night.

 

Caddo Lake Tours

Depending on your interest, fishing, photography, birding or sightseeing tours are all available.

Five guides operate out of Uncertain, two in Pine Island, and one further away. Many of the guides have lived in the area for decades, and are very knowledgeable about the hidden ponds, sloughs and channels in the specific part of the lake where they’re based. Let them know exactly what you want to see, talk to them on the phone and see if the guide is a good match.

See the complete list of tour operators here. Best to call them directly as internet can be unreliable. Not all operate during the pandemic. Tours range from an hour to half day.

Driving through and need to book a day tour last minute? Try Billy’s Go Devil Tours departing from Johnson’s Ranch Marina in Uncertain. Or call Rich at Caddo Lake Bayou Tours departing from Shady Glade pier.

Fishing is popular on Caddo Lake year round. Those keen on the sport may want to learn a new way to catch 10 lb bass. Jigger pole fishing is taught by a guide with 40 years experience perfecting this unusual technique in shallow waters of the swamp. Ole Jigger is the only guide likely offering this instruction in the world. Any fisherman who tries it–gets hooked!

 

Kayaking on Caddo Lake

Feeling adventurous? Many of the cabin rentals in Uncertain include free kayaks. A gradual slope makes entering the swamp a breeze. (In contrast, cabin rentals in Pine Island don’t generally include kayaks due to a steep river bank.) Alternatively, you can rent a kayak at Johnson’s Ranch Marina in Uncertain.

Beware that there are a few obstacles for kayaking on Caddo!

For starters, kayaks are obviously more tipsy than stable swamp boats. Stay low to enter.

Bring a laminated map and follow route markers (letters) on wooden posts to avoid getting lost. Cypress trees tend to look alike and trick your mind as you try to navigate the route back home in a confusing maze of over 50 miles of watery trails!

Locals refer to getting lost as “spending the night in the Caddo Motel.” With uninvited guests. (I really can’t imagine what it would be like to sit in a kayak for 8 hours—let alone in complete darkness—jumping at the slightest noise—a sudden splash, or the haunting hooting of owls. Nope, don’t wanna try.)

Another obstacle: what lies beneath. I’m not talking about alligators or water moccasins—although they could be a concern. The more common obstacles are the gnarled roots and stubby knees of cypress trees. Murky water hides the presence of both.

You can be paddling along, and, bam! The nose of your kayak is stuck in a root. Or you hit something sideways and the kayak tilts out of the water. Don’t panic. Stay calm. Stay low. Paddle backwards. Or wiggle yourself free.

Those with little experience should avoid taking anything valuable. If you must, put your phone/camera in a waterproof bag to protect against rain or –egads–getting wet when you fall overboard. Kidding aside, you might want to stay near the shore, or simply paddle in front of your cabin until you get the hang of it. Just get out there! Don’t be afraid, venture out!

Kayaking here is a great experience–there’s nothing quite like it. A shot of adrenalin (every time your kayak knocks into something or gets stuck in tangled weeds) followed by relief (okay, relax, it wasn’t a gator) makes you feel alive! Your senses are on full alert. You notice the little things. Patterns in the cypress bark. Tiny buds on lily pads. Movement in the distance. A strange, haunting bird cry.

But the longer you kayak, the more you relax. Paddling past these massive moss-draped trees, perfectly reflected in glassy water, brings a certain calmness. Breathing in the wild beauty of this surreal scene truly does nourish your soul.

 

Boardwalks on Caddo Lake

Love the variety of ways to explore this swamp…by kayak, a flat-bottomed boat, or long winding boardwalks on Taylor Island.

 

This is yet another section of our private boardwalk. Serene by day, spooky by night. (Trust me!)

Guests of Spatterdock cabins are encouraged to explore other boardwalks than their own. Owners Dottie and Billy Carter live at Wildfern, where guests are welcome on their Lost Dog boardwalk. It has an upper Observation Platform, a child’s play area and a chapel at the very the end of the pier, where boaters congregate for a weekly evening service.

Dottie and Billy finished building their newest, and longest boardwalk at the Barnstormer cabin a couple years ago. Stretching a mile over swampy waters, Frog Trot is located near the sign, Taylor Island, when you drive in.

The carpet of green you see is Giant Salvinia, an aggressive free-floating invasive species that can double in size every 4-10 days during favorable growing conditions. Choking oxygen from the water, the aquatic plant threatens to suffocate small fish and other wildlife. It also confuses ducks and prevents them from landing. And keeps boaters away. The plant grows 5 inches thick in some parts of the lake, and gets tangled in boat motors.

The Caddo Lake Institute along with other scientists and community groups have tried different methods to eradicate it since discovered in 2006. But so far, only cold winters have been effective in destroying the salvinia fern.

 

Apparently there are quite a few dogs who mistake the green for grass. Imagine their surprise when they splash into the swamp!

Tourists staying elsewhere have access to boardwalks at Caddo Lake State Park. This is located outside of Uncertain, past the turn off for Pine Island, a few miles toward the highway (there’s only one way in). We didn’t get a chance to visit. But there are hiking trails, kayak rentals and cabins too.

 

Dining Options on Caddo Lake

PINE ISLAND side: 15-20 minute drive from our cabin 

Big Pines Lodge restaurant has lakeside indoor/outdoor dining. Gator, froglegs, hushpuppies are all surprisingly delicious! Very casual. Closest to main highway. (closed mon tues) 737 Pine Isl Rd. The Graceful Ghost replica of an 1800’s era steamboat is docked outside the restaurant.

River Bend Restaurant fine dining farther down the same road. Waitress brought out free appetizers–gigantic jalapeno cornbread, red beans, pickled veggies and the most delicious coleslaw I’ve ever eaten. Yep, all free! But save room for the entrees. And take home dessert. Top choice. (closed mon tues) 211 PR 2422 Rd

 

UNCERTAIN TOWN: 3 minute drive from our cabin

BBQ outpost Tiny trailer sits near the corner when you arrive into town. Best brisket ever! Solo operation serves breakfast or lunch. Take out. Went back the next day for the same lunch!

Spade Glade Cafe We ate here for breakfast, and so did the locals. Typical diner fare–eggs, bacon, sausage, toast, grits. Three tour operators depart from the nearby pier.

Lighthouse Bar & Grill is the only place open daily for lunch and dinner (noon to midnight) 1805 Blair’s Landing Road. We drove north past Taylor Island for a long time but never found it.

Beware at night that it is really REALLY dark around here. A single road weaves through thick trees. Locals may know where to go, but tourists can get lost in the dark! No street lights, houses, businesses, billboards or signs make it disorienting. Is that my turn off or someone’s driveway?

Don’t recommend trying to find it your first night like we did. We ended up returning to our cabin and ate snacks for dinner as there was nothing else open, not even a gas station for drinks. Yep, it’s that remote!

 

Lodging on Caddo Lake

There are 13 different options in Uncertain, stretching west along Caddo’s shore. Small resorts, lodges or cabins sit on either Cypress Drive or Taylor Island’s Mossy Brake Road. See the complete list here.

We stayed at Spatterdock Cabins on Taylor Island. Sitting on the edge of the swamp, the six cabins have mossy cypress tree scenery outside their porch door. Private boardwalks are a special perk! Super affordable too. Nightly rates: $150 for 2 adults (kids free under 7 years, $15 ages 7-15), $30 extra pp (2 n minimum). Bedding and towels included, canoes & kayaks, screened porches, kitchens, and over the water patios, charcoal grills and firepits. Owners Dottie & Billy Carter. She decorates the town with her art and he operates Johnson Ranch Marina and Billy’s Go Devil tours.

There are also cabins for rent at Lake Caddo State Park, and along the shores in Pine Island through vrbo.com.

 

Last Morning on Caddo Lake

Even though we had a long drive ahead of us to reach Myrtles Plantation (eastern Louisiana) by 4pm, we squeezed in one last sunrise tour. This time, we booked a boat tour through Johnson’s Ranch Marina right in town.

We met our guide at dawn and motored out onto the big lake. This was a short ride of about 10 minutes. Then we sat in the water and waited for sunrise.

Vivid oranges appeared. Sunrise colors looked more like sunset.

 

Minutes later…

 

The scenery lacked the fairytale setting from the Pine Island side of the Big Cypress Bayou. But the leaves were surprisingly orange over here. It looked more like Autumn.

 

Our last sighting of an egret swooping into view at Caddo Lake. Perhaps he was waving goodbye.

 

It was time to leave. Our short tour was over in 45 minutes, but what a dramatic finale to our 3 night stay.

I loved Caddo Lake! The mysterious, intriguing swamp made me forget all about the pandemic for awhile.

For that I’m grateful.

Caddo, you made my heart sing!

 

 

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