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Even if you’re not an avid fan of the Outlander TV series, you can’t deny the intriguing mystique of these stones that were the inspiration for Claire’s Craigh na Dun.
Scotland’s Callanish Standing Stones, reaching fifteen feet high in the sky, take center stage on a ridge very far away on the remote western Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides. Tourists that do venture here can wander freely among these striking monoliths without impeding ropes, fences or admission fees. Day or night!
And when you visit, like Claire, you too can wander up to the tallest rock and put your hands on it. Just don’t expect to travel back in time and fall in love with Jamie like she did.
Origin…
The Callanish Standing Stones have mystified people for centuries. Nobody knows who built them. Or why.
Scientists do know, however, that the formations are slabs of Lewisian Gneiss rock, one of the oldest rocks in the world. And that they were erected 5,000 years ago, in 2900 BC, making them much older than Stonehenge!
Whoever decided to stand these stones up on their ends did so with specific intent. Arranged in the shape of a Celtic cross, there is a smaller circle of 13 stones in the intersecting lines that some believe was an ancient grave or ceremonial site. Others dismiss religious intent, claiming instead that the stones served an astronomical purpose–to track lunar pathways and draw rays into the earth to help fertility of the crops planted by Neolithic farmers who lived here then.
There is a rather strange phenomenon that occurs here every 18.61 years. Something to do with the “cycle of maximum lunar declination.” During this particular solstice the full moon aligns with the double row of stones leading out from the center circle and shines down the avenue creating a glowing man in the moon sort of effect. Legends of a glowing entity called the “Shining One” have been passed down through the generations by oral tradition on the island. Local expert Margaret R. Curtis witnessed this event in June 1987 and talks about her experience here.
Theories and perplexities aside, these Callanish Standing Stones do feel special when you visit. Especially at night. When the late setting sun finally dips below the horizon, the stony silhouettes of these gentle giants look majestic against the sky, a long-standing testament of these petrified beings withstanding whipping wind, rain and hail over the passage of time.
So hauntingly beautiful…
Know Before you go:
A museum at the adjacent Calanais Visitor’s Center (small fee) shows a short film and shares information in a few exhibits to enlighten us about what researchers do know. They also have the contact information for a local woman, the self-taught archaeo-astronomer Margaret Curtis, who provides private tours of the Callanish Standing Stones for anyone from scientists to goddesses.
The Visitor Center contains restrooms, a deli counter and souvenir shop where you can buy your own tiny slab of Lewisian Gneiss rock to wear around your neck (pretty cool, we bought two). Closed Sundays. Hours: June-Aug 9:30am – 8pm; April, May, Sept & Oct: 10am -6pm; Nov to March: 10am – 4pm Tues to Sat.
Most people visit on a bus tour late morning or afternoon. But the best time to visit is when the crowd dissipates. Pop into the little museum near closing, then wander out to the stones. Then come back at night at sunset to watch the magic. You can park at the Visitor Center and walk 5 min or drive up to them on a marked single track road to the top of the hill.
Summer: beware that sunset here happens late! Expect to be here from 10:30pm-11:15pm.
Winter: Lucky you! Chance of seeing the northern lights dancing above the formations is strongest in March.
Lodging: There are 2 guesthouses with a couple rooms located within 15 minutes walking distance of the Callanish Standing Stones. They book up early. But there are cottages to rent in the immediate area. Loved our farmhouse rental just a 5 minute drive away! Zoom out to see closest hotels on the map below.
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