Joining a small group tour in Provence, France

Exploring the grounds of our St. Remy inn on the first day of our small group tour in Provence, my daughter Jordan said, “It’s like Tuscany…but with flowers!”

A strong, heady fragrance of jasmine filled the air. White blossoms were growing in profusion everywhere. One bush perfectly hid a calico cat sitting on the shaded edge of a stone fountain. Until Jordan spied him sauntering away. Ivy clung to textured walls with painted shutters and iron balconies. We ducked under vines hanging from a trellis creating a natural arch, inhaling more jasmine at the gate leading to the garden area outside our room.

“Ohhh, it’s so idyllic. Like a fairytale,” she said, her voice trailing in a whisper.

Smiling, I nodded. I had felt the very same way when I visited Provence 20 years ago.

She was a toddler then, when I had traveled here solo. Staying in a tiny medieval village fortified with walls, I had rented the only available accommodations–a gite. A spiral staircase led upstairs to my shuttered bedroom in one of the stone homes that lined the cobblestone lanes, too narrow for cars, in a confusing labyrinth winding up the hill to an ancient castle. Like the locals, I relied on the bi-weekly market that came to Ansouis to buy meats, cheese and produce from the farmers– as there were no grocery stores or restaurants back then. The only store was a patisserie where locals stopped in every morning to buy their bread. I didn’t speak French. So I relied on gestures and a few phrases to communicate with everyone except my British photography instructor, who gave me daily magazine assignments in various villages around the Provencal countryside.

I remember being filled with wonder every time I wandered around another medieval hilltop village or crumbling ruin. Or stood above valleys patterned with vineyards, olive groves and poppies filling lands in between. Simply magical. Provence’s romantic fairytale setting had felt like a dream. One that I had vowed to share with my daughter someday.

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Provence is a vast region in southeastern France with a warm Mediterranean climate that has drawn artists, Romans, and wine makers for centuries. Filled with so many picturesque medieval villages, gorgeous landscapes and Roman ruins how can you possibly know where to begin exploring?

Joining a small group tour in Provence can be an excellent way for first time visitors to experience this beautiful region of France. And experienced travelers too!

As an independent traveler, and former organizer of the UPT photography tours we used to lead, I know how much time and effort goes into researching and planning detailed trips. Which is exactly why I sometimes jump at the chance to let someone else do all the planning and navigating!

Which is the reason why my daughter and I joined Emily’s small group tour in Provence this past June with Your Private Provence. I was initially drawn to her Lavender and Heritage Sites tour because I had previously visited almost all of the villages on her itinerary. And I was eager to revisit those same places with my daughter.

 

Why I loved this particular tour…

Emily’s tour stood out from other small group tours in Provence for several reasons. First, the itinerary covered a more expansive area than other operators, from the Camargue to Sault. Unique experiences ranged from  cultural and historical to culinary. We visited historical Roman monuments, van Gogh’s trail, a nature preserve and lavender farm distillery. Dined on gourmet fare from picnics to Michelin-starred restaurants, every meal accompanied by wine. And stayed at two gorgeous properties– exclusive to our group– of just 7 people max.

What made this tour even more special was Emily herself. A quiet, gentle soul, she was never overbearing or domineering. She provided just the right amount of carefully selected nuggets of information to share with us to enhance our appreciation of each site. And gave us time to explore on our own. Pacing was perfect, not rushed.

As an American who married an engaging French farmer 20 some years ago, Emily has established connections and friendships with locals who also added dimension and depth to our experience. We benefited from their expertise too. Romain taught us about wine in Chateaneuf-du-Pape. Yannic enlightened us about olive oil in Gordes. Patrick led us on a personalized tour of his Manade Laurent Ranch in the Camargue. We even met Emily’s family and shared dinner with them, listening to stories about life in Provence while dining on a multi-course feast prepared by a private chef.

It was a week of authentic experiences without crowds. We dined beside locals, visited major sites before or after bus tours left, and explored remote, little-known sites. Yes, it’s always the luck of the draw regarding contrasting personalities when you join a group tour. But our fellow participants were fun, interesting to talk to and respectful. Nobody was rude, loud or late. We meshed quickly and effortlessly. And were sad to part at the end of the week.

We had time for ourselves too. Our typical day began with a leisurely breakfast on our own. Then we piled into Emily’s luxury Mercedes van and headed to a new destination each morning. Our farthest destination was an hour away. Mid-to-late afternoon we had free time to explore more on our own. Or just relax poolside at our countryside inn. And all meals plus wine were included. So we never had to waste time wondering where to go or make reservations in advance which is essential for these tiny restaurants in this part of France.

 

Highlights of our small group tour in Provence

Avignon

Jordan and I rode the fast ATV train here to Avignon from Paris, a direct 3 hour journey. Emily met us at the train station, and our small group tour in Provence began! She led us on a walking tour past the impressive Gothic-styled Palace of the Popes and Pont d’Avignon. Both UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Then drove us to a secret spot in the woods for lunch. Ooo, I knew this tour was going to be special the moment we arrived. Wonderfully off the beaten path!

Stone arches and ivy-trellised passages led to an old monastery. We ordered tarts, salads or panini sandwiches from a tiny pop-up cafe. Then had plenty of time to roam around on own our. There was a little museum & film for those who didn’t want to explore the ruins or trails, and lush gardens with ponds where butterflies fluttered around blooming lily pads. And chairs facing peekaboo views of the Papal Palace across the river.

 

Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Where Popes made their wine…long ago… when Avignon was the seat of the Roman Catholic Church (1309–1377). Located 7 miles north of Avignon in the Rhone River valley, these vineyards and winemaking date back to the 1100’s! Around 200 wineries produce wine today, prized worldwide for their bold Grenache-based red blends.

We followed our wine expert, Romain, past the Pope’s ‘new castle’ ruins and through the tiny village. Then ducked into one of the cellars to learn and sample red and white wines paired with charcuterie & chocolate. So good!

Then toured a very old and atmospheric winery, Chateau la Nerthe, dating from 1570.

And of course tasted more wine!

Maybe a little too much wine cuz nobody except Jordan knew the answers to the little quiz Emily gave us afterward!

 

Camargue in the South of France

Driving south we ventured into to the vast nature reserve of the Camargue. Known for the flamingos, white horses and bulls that live here, and the salt and rice that are harvested in the marshy salt flats near the Mediterranean Sea.

We spent the morning at the Manade Laurent Ranch, an estate proudly run Patrick and Estelle Laurent, a 3rd generation family who breed award-winning bulls and wild Camargue horses.

They raise their animals traditionally, in complete freedom to roam and feed naturally. Their genuine passion for the animals, land and lifestyle was crystal clear.

Riding in a trailer-pulled wagon, we rode into the fields and learned about Gardian culture (French cowboys) while getting a close look at the bulls and their beautiful white Camargue horses used for herding.

Back at the mas we learned about their prized bull and Course Camarguaise bullfighting–which is quite different to Spanish bullfighting. The objective in the ring for the brave razeteurs is not to kill the bull, but to grab ribbons tied between their horns in a specific order. Patrick once trained and performed as a razeteur himself, but gave it up at the request of his new bride many years ago.

Now he is the organizer of the most prestigious bull race, La Cocarde d’Or, held in the Roman Arena in Arles the first Monday of July. (I was surprised to hear this, and eager to hear more as I had already secured my tickets to attend this race!) He pointed out videos playing of razeteurs in action that showed men running away from the bulls and leaping high into the bleachers. It promised to be an exciting event! Patrick also showed us his impressive saddle collection while we sampled bull sausage, goat cheeses, tapenade and rose wine. All in all, a delightful experience that I thoroughly enjoyed. And one that wouldn’t have been possible without being part of this small group tour.

Afterward Emily drove us to a remote restaurant that served Camargue specialties. Under a shaded canopy, we enjoyed a multi-course lunch, laughing in surprise each time yet another dish was brought to our table. As if a trio of desserts wasn’t enough! I’d never eaten bull meat, but the steak was tender and delicious. And so was the olive oil bread served with tapenade. If you ever see olive oil bread on the menu do not pass it up!

 

Arles

In Arles, we walked past the massive Roman Arena monument and Amphitheatre ruins. Emily briefed us on the history of these ancient sites, giving us just enough info to pique our interest but always willing to delve deeper for those wanting more.

(I also peeked around Rue du Grant Couvent, by the Arena, looking for the gite address I’d be renting 2 weeks later for a 3 night stay.)

We wandered down narrow streets in the old town, visited the Roman Forum, the intricately carved St. Trophime church, and saw where Van Gogh painted when he lived here in the late 1800’s. The van Gogh cafe modeled after his famous painting is now permanently closed. I hardly recognized it, or the rest of the block, from 20 years ago, much less from his famous painting Cafe Terrace at Night from 1888.

Van Gogh created 187 paintings and drawings in the 18 months that he lived in Arles. Some of the best known from this time include Starry Night over the Rhone, Sunflowers in a Vase, Autumn Harvest and several self-portraits.

This replica of Starry Night over the Rhone is displayed in the spot where he painted it on the Rhone River. To see it, go behind the Musee Reattu and walk along the riverbank where the riverboats are dock.

*** Wanna see the real thing? Note that his original Starry Night over the Rhone is being displayed in Arles for the FIRST TIME since he painted it in 1888!! See it at the Foundation VG until Aug 25, 2024. Otherwise, you’ll have to go to Paris. **

 

St. Remy

While based in St. Remy for 4 nights, we toured many sites including Pont de Gard bridge, Les Baux, and the famous Saint Paul de Mausoleum. The asylum is where van Gogh lived for a year after cutting off his ear. This site was a 25 minute walk from our B&B. Jordan and I walked here along the van Gogh trail (mostly sidewalks) and wandered around the olive groves where he painted.

Our group came here the next day to tour the interior. We saw the atmospheric cloisters and also other rooms open for the first time like the kitchen and nun’s quarters. And of course the biggest draw of all–van Gogh’s room. Then walked around the back of the property where lavender was in bloom.

Wednesday morning our group roamed around St. Remy’s weekly market. Vendors squeezed into narrow lanes sold everything from linen clothing and hats to forged knives, jewelry and art. Plus fresh produce, bull sausage, nougat, tapenade, olives, honey and goat cheese. Emily asked us each to buy a little something to share at our picnic lunch outside the ancient Roman city of Glanum. Ironically, 3 out of 7 people bought fresh cherries!

One night we drove 30 minutes to Les Baux attend a multi-media art immersive show held in a massive rock quarry. If you’ve seen the van Gogh art immersive show that’s been traveling all over the States, know that it began here in this rock quarry 20 years ago! Each year the subject matter varies. Egypt was currently featured at Carrieres de Lumieres.

Afterward, we walked through tiny Les Baux village perched high on a rock.We practically had the village to ourselves as most of the tourists had disappeared.

Shopping anyone? Nancy? 🙂 

 

Sault

One day we traveled north, up to the mountainous region of Sault. Reaching a rocky outcrop around 766 meters high, facing Mont Ventoux, we got out to admire the views.

Then walked through lavender fields to see the difference between fine lavender (rare, used in expensive perfumes) and lavandine.

Afterward we visited a lavender farm and learned about the distillery process for making essential oils and perfume.

Lunch was a scrumptious picnic under a cherry tree—prosciutto and melon, a sandwich with grilled eggplant, goat cheese & pesto, a blueberry muffin and rose wine.

Somewhere in the mountains, we spied an old castle-like property and got out to explore. Another great day…

 

Gordes

We stayed on the edge of this gorgeous hilltop village for 3 nights. From this base we also visited canal-lined Isle sur la Sorgue, the ocher-colored village of Roussillon, and hiked a path leading to a cavernous water source in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse.

In Gordes, our group descended into the mysterious Caves de Saint Firmin, maze-like cellars underneath the village where olive oil was manufactured in the Middle Ages. Then emerged into a scenic garden where Yannic taught us more about olive oil and how to pair them with goat cheese, tarts and rose wine. Yum.

Another morning we left early to beat the buses and visited Abbaye de Senaque. This monastery is perhaps the most iconic sight in Provence, featured on postcards everywhere. The lavender was not quite in bloom to match the famous views. We were fortunate to go inside and tour the monastery in complete peace. Emily led us around sharing facts about the building, monks who live here, and her own experience when she stayed here a week on retreat. It was great to explore before the crowds. Once again, great planning Emily.

 

Cooking class in our small group tour in Provence

In nearby Joucas, we took a cooking class from Michelin-starred chef Xavier Mathieu at his Mediterranean restaurant. Known for using local products to create gastronomic dishes, his menu is in a different league.

We followed him into his professional kitchen, donned aprons and found a spot. His assistants handed out glasses of wine and our menus. We’d be making Purple artichoke Barigoule and Fennel in a salt crust. Welcome to French cuisine!

Sipping wine, we practiced our knife skills. (Only in France!)

Under the careful eye of his assistant chefs, we carved out mushroom-shaped artichoke hearts, chopped onions and tomatoes, breaded fennel, sauteed spinach, and used molds to bake spinach designs.

We followed one of the sous chefs outdoors to collect fresh basil from the garden for the finishing touch. Then were seated outside next to the pool at the extravagant Relais & Chateaux property where we were served our veggie creations with wine.

 

Food on our small group tour in Provence

In Provence, chefs take pride in using “fruits of the season.” Which basically means that the menu will change monthly, if not weekly, based on the availability of whatever is currently ripe or fresh. French chefs typically use organic products from farmers they trust and know. Evident on the menus that sometimes state where specific items came from—like goat cheese from so-and-so’s farm. During our tour the last week of June, asparagus, green beans, eggplant, lamb and strawberries were often on our menus.

All of our meals were outdoors. Surprisingly comfortable. Shade trees and a frequent breeze brought respite from any heat. And there were rarely any bugs. (Back home we’d be eaten alive by mosquitoes or annoyed by flies. Not here.)

Each chef put his or her own creative twist on each dish. Sometimes the pairings sounded strange but tasted amazing. I honestly have no idea what was in the creamy goat cheese concoction that added such flavor to green beans with roasted pumpkin seeds. But I wish I did. I’d love to eat that again. And again.

Or the little green polka dots that decorated my salmon. Ohhhh, so good.

The lamb was always fabulous. Tender and succulent. My go-to favorite main, or plat, in Provence!

The only meat I would pass on next time would be the pigeon. Which no, didn’t taste like chicken. And the appearance was a bit off-putting—the color of undercooked meat—red.

The show-stopper finale for each meal was decadent dessert.

Chocolate mousse, meringues, fresh fruits and sorbets… just look how creative!

Yeah, you just try to say no…

Prix fixe meals meant we could order our choice of entree (appetizer), plat (main entree) and dessert from the menu. Or order the chef’s plat de jour, special menu of the day. Several of the restaurants had Michelin-starred chefs. Accompanied by prices that would make your brows rise (80 euro per person!)

What a treat to enjoy such gourmet foods, artfully presented. A true foodie’s delight.

 

Lodging on our small group tour in Provence

Lodging was split between 2 beautiful properties on the edge of St. Remy and Gordes, two medieval villages favored as the darlings of Provence. Both inns catered to small groups and had charming hosts.

 

St. Remy — Maison de Line B&B (4 n)

Located about a 10 minute walk to the center of the village. Jordan and I went shopping, visited the van Gogh museum (cool comparison of his art & Picasso’s), walked the van Gogh trail to the asylum, and visited Glanum. I’m glad we had 4 nights here because there was so much to see and do during our free time in the afternoon. And just soak up the atmosphere in Jordan’s favorite village.

Our room was an apartment. We actually unpacked and felt at home. Not just a bedroom, but a living area and kitchenette too.

Breakfast with made-to-order eggs plus pastries, crepes and breads was available on the terrace, indoors or our own little garden.

A zen-like pool had an attached room for games, reading or relaxing on comfy couches in an inviting space. Drinks and snacks were available too.

 

Gordes — Domaine de L’Enclos (3 n)

This quiet retreat feels remote and overlooks scenic vineyards in the valley below. Yet is a short walk from the village. Little stone Bories scattered on the property are where farmers stored things ages ago.

We were free to roam around the main areas which included a living room with a grand piano, game room with billiards, honor bar, dining room and kitchen.

Our spacious room had a loft with a balcony.

And incredible views outside our shuttered windows…

Look at the charming landscape below!

We could see Gordes village castle from our loft balcony…

…day and night.

Outdoors had a sitting area in landscaped gardens, a pool and pool house with a sauna.

Location to the village center was a short 10-15 walk down the hill. Jordan and I wandered over a couple of times. Various stores caught our eye–a high-end macaron shop, adorable baby clothes made with Provencal prints, lavender sachets, linen clothes, herbed soaps. And an ancient church.

On the last night of our small group tour in Provence, Jordan & I returned to Gordes after dinner to attend their Midsummer Night festival. Locals were dancing and singing along to older American pop music under stringed lights. Little girls in dresses were running around, dancing, laughing. Everyone seemed to be having a good time on this mellow night. It was nice to just sit under a plane tree together, taking it all in. Bonding over simple pleasures. And reminiscing about our time in Provence so far.

What a week it had been. Packed with so many different sites, regions and experiences it was hard to pick a favorite.

That’s the sign of a good tour.

And an excellent (re)introduction to Provence!

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