Are you a fan of Westerns? Ever dreamt of being a cowboy, or cowgirl? Or wondered what life on a ranch is reeeally like—away from Hollywood screens?
Last February, I jumped at an opportunity of staying on a working cattle ranch and photographing a family and their life on a ranch in Livingston, Montana.
Even though it was winter. Which meant freezing, subzero temps and fierce, bone-chilling gusts up to 50 mph winds.
Perfect, really.
Because the workday of a cowboy, or cowgirl, goes on day after day, all year long. Despite the weather. Chores have to be done. Cattle raised. Horses trained. I would get to see what life was like far removed from the romanticized visions dancing in my head.
I flew into Bozeman for a night, before I headed 36 miles east the next day through Livingston and arrived at Mission Ranch. The setting was stunning. The ranch, with an old historic barn and a modern contemporary log lodge, sat smack in the middle of mountain country—Bridger and Sheep and Crazy Mountains to the north and the Absaroka Mountain Range to the south. Yellowstone River flew through the northern edge of the massive property, but scenic Mission Creek banked with snow and ice gurgled right beside the lodge.
A worn pair of cowboy boots sat next to the front door. ‘Twas a fitting introduction to the West. Inside, I settled into my inviting guestroom, a cool mix of rough-hewn wood, worn leather chaps and modern decor.
Welcome to the Ranch!
Cowboy culture was new to me, and I didn’t always understand the subtle complexities of what I observed that week. But I happily captured a young family living their dream of life on a ranch.
The couple managing the day to day operations on this 4,500-acre working cattle ranch were in their late 20’s. Cowboy Austin and his cowgirl wife, Jaimie, also had two small children at home. They spent many hours checking, herding, feeding and caring for the cattle being raised for tender, pasture-fed, all natural, certified Black Angus beef.
Because life on a ranch involves, most importantly, taking care of cattle.
This morning was particularly blustery and cold, with temps dipping to -22 F degrees. Yet Austin and Jaimie trailered their horses to the pasture and were quick to jump on the horses to check on their cattle.
Both are experienced riders and were natural on horseback. They rode around the perimeter of the pasture gathering the 350 head of cattle to check on their well-being. The beef they raise never leave the ranch. They graze on pastures most of the year, moving to new pastures—with a little coaxing by them and their border collies—to greener pastures on the sprawling land.
Passionate about the ranching lifestyle and raising high quality, antibiotic-free meat, Jaimie began selling pork and beef through her Cowgirl Meat Company which she started up in 2014. The tagline is “Montana raised, no added hormone, grass & grain fed meat. Raised with love.” (I can personally attest that it is tender and delicious!)
Sometimes a stray calf or cow has to be lassoed back to the fold.
Cattle stay outdoors all year. On this snowy, blizzardy day, they were huddled under trees seeking trees for shelter from the wind and cold.
It turned out to be a very cold week to observe life on a ranch!
Jaimie “ponying” a horse across a creek on their property during a snowstorm. Can’t imagine how freezing cold that water must’ve felt spraying up into the air as they splashed through. Even the horse looks like he’s dreading it.
Heading back to the barn with her Quarter horse.
To escape the cold for a bit, Jaimie and Austin agreed to some portraits in their barns. Here’s Jaimie with her chestnut-colored Quarter horse.
And cowboy Austin, with his sidekick border collie, inside the historic dairy barn that once provided the milk for Yellowstone National Park lodges.
Even Grandpa John was willing to pose for a portrait!
Life on a ranch involves socializing with close friends… who also happen to be ranchers.
Ranchers seem to be a close-knit bunch despite the distances between them. They share responsibilities and help each other on big work days. And also get together socially.
One day, their friends with two children came to spend the day from a neighboring ranch 50 miles away. Being ingrained in that cowboy cowgirl culture—of course they trailered and brought their own horses!
Allison with her Flea Bitten Gray Quarter horse.
The barn provides a safe sheltered place for kids to learn about riding and interacting with horses.
Hang on there, young cowboy!
While the kids stayed home with Jaimie’s dad visiting from Arizona (bet the weather was a bit of a shock, huh?) the adults went riding up in the snowy mountains.
Life on a ranch involves riding for fun!
Just look at this cowgirl fly!
It was so snowy, that the Absaroka peaks that rise sharply behind Austin are not visible in these shots. (And never materialized before my eyes the rest of the week.)
Before long another couple joined in from a nearby ranch (actually miles away—“nearly” being a relative term in cowboy country!) The horses were sure-footed despite the snow.
The group was happy to pose for a group shot before they galloped home to spend some time with their kiddos around a campfire.
S’mores, anyone?
None for you, little doggie.
As the kids scampered off, the cowboys hung out socializing around the bonfire beside Mission Creek, the narrow ribbon of water flowing through the snowy landscape behind the lodge.
Life on a ranch involves daily chores.
Like feeding the animals…
During winter, horses and cattle eat high-quality hay that Austin grows and harvests on the ranch.
Even their son pitches in to feed horses hay.
And collecting free-range eggs…
Life on a ranch also involves branding, giving vaccinations and calving which I didn’t get to see as winter was not the right season.
Life on a ranch involves family time.
Playing in the snow…
Reading…
Making yummy home-made food…
And just “horsing” around!
I felt privileged to spend a week with this charming cowboy and his elegant cowgirl and came home with a much greater appreciation and respect for the never-ending work that’s involved in running a cattle ranch. I couldn’t do it. But thank goodness there’s people who are passionate about ranching like them that can. It’s one of those vacations that your friends may question (whaaat? you don’t want to go laze on a beach?) but that’s what appeals to me. Doing something different with my precious vacation time.
So you wanna be a cowboy or cowgirl for a week?
The ranch I was staying on, Mission Ranch, was unfortunately sold and is no longer operating as a guest lodge. We were in fact the last guests to stay at their beautiful, stunning lodge.
But there are 20 other ranches scattered around Montana that do cater to guests. Can you ride? If you want in on the day-to-day action, pull on your boots. You might be mending fences or pitching hay. Learning to rope. Or saddling up to round up cattle. Or, if you’re like me, choose a ranch where you’re more an observer of the American cowboy’s Western life. Or stay on a ranch where you’re more a guest who can enjoy leisurely rides through open valleys and fish for trout in mountain streams. Each ranch has a different slant to the wannabe cowboy experience.
What’s your preference? How do you want to experience life on a ranch?
Check out options online, such as Montana Ranch Vacations or the Montana selections on The World’s Top 50 Ranches websites. Or get travel ideas from guidebooks, such as Moon’s Montana Off the Beaten Path.
Or to simply read and learn more about the lifestyle of The Montana Cowboy: Legends of the Big Sky Country, take a look at this beautiful book illustrating rodeos and over 30 ranches.
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Charles Carter - What an awesome life hard work for good living cowboys n girls know how to live.
Kim - Hard working for sure! And in such cold windy conditions too — some days must be just plain miserable.
Terri Ivey - What an amazing place to live. I really enjoyed this story. I actually have 3 pictures of that very barn on my phone that i took passing through one time!!! I couldn’t believe it !!
Kim - Thank you so much, Terri! I loved photographing this family all week despite the bitter windy cold. They warmed my little ole’ heart.
Frank connolly - Awesome pictures
Kim - Thanks kindly…felt very special to be there!