What makes Bozeman, Montana so cool?

This is one of those places you initially fly into as a stop-over enroute to another destination. But once here, you realize you could linger longer.

Which is what happened to me. I’ve visited twice, both times in winter. And this last time I stretched my stay into 4 nights instead of one. Here’s my take what makes Bozeman, Montana so cool…

1. A Hip Attitude

A laid-back hippy meets modern cowboy kind-of-vibe permeates this small college town where female clergy with purple-and-blue-dyed hair offer Ashes to Go on Ash Wednesday, guys decked in dark jeans, cowboy boots and Patagonia parkas saunter into their law offices or women in trim leather jackets, bohemian long skirts and tall boots sip green tea or bone broth sold on Main Street. Casualness rules.

The love of the outdoors is evident everywhere here—from local attire to the stores selling skis, bikes, outdoor clothing, and sporting equipment. Art galleries, unique jewelry, boutique clothing, western wear, consignment clothing, and appealing souvenirs are tucked inside historic Art Deco, Italianate or Mission Revival buildings in the compact walkable downtown which is bookended by two food Co-ops on the main drag. You’ll also find tea shops, coffee shops (also selling freshly-made bone broth) wine bars, whisky bars, tapas cafes, tap rooms, and restaurants proudly serving locally sourced free-range organic beef, trout, bison and wild game.

It’s the kind of place where an elderly man with a weathered face, long gray beard and scruffy boots engages in easy conversation with a young professional inside the Food Co-op’s corner cafe. And the kind of place where you get a free apple at the Soup Shack when you order a scrumptious homemade soup, creative sandwich or healthy salad in the fun, hip renovated auto mechanic shop.

Check Bozone.com to see upcoming events, music, museum exhibits or pick up the local paper to read what’s happening in the community. Sample example: during my visit I saw free tickets advertised for opening night of a play, an invitation to attend a yoga class with a healthy potluck afterward—or alternatively—yoga & beer at Outlaw Brewing, and a mountain film festival showcasing the curated best of Telluride’s film fest. Count me in!

 

2. Epic Mountain Scenery

Look around. Those snow covered mountains? The Rockies.

 

3. Outdoor Adventures

There’s no shortage of things to do all year long. But since I’ve only visited in winter, I’ll concentrate on those most popular.

Ice climbing is huge. 

And Hyalite Canyon, located about 45 minutes from Bozeman, is THE place. Known for excellent climbing routes and a long climbing season from Nov-mid March, Hyalite attracts adrenalin junkies keen to claw their way up giant icicles and frozen waterfalls hanging from rocky cliffs. An annual week-long ice festival featuring demonstrations and clinics for beginners to masters level classes with specialty courses for women and rescue staff has been popular here for the last 20 years.

So is fly-fishing.

Catch trout in the legendary Gallatin River, the Yellowstone or Madison Rivers flowing within 25 miles of Bozeman. Go at it alone or hire one of the many local guide operators offering wade or boat trips.

And of course, skiing.

With or without your dog. Go snowboarding, downhill or cross-country skiing at Bridger Bowl just outside of town. If you don’t have a car, no worries. A free shuttle can whisk you from downtown or the Fairgrounds to the slope 16 miles away. Over 300 inches of snow falls each winter, practically guaranteeing dry powdery fluff.  Also popular 50 miles south of town, is Big Sky Resort with 34 ski lifts and 250 ski trails.

For cross country/Nordic skiing, Hyalite Canyon has 30 km of groomed trails, plus a 24 km ungroomed loop. Bridger Bowl has a Nordic program (lessons too) plus scenic beginner and intermediate trails on the golf course. Rent equip at the Round House Ski shop in town or at Bridger Bowl. Further away, Yellowstone has cross-country ski rental and groomed trails at both parks. Area guest ranches offer the same.

Go trail running in Hyalite Canyon.

Just don’t forget your ice cleats.

Or even back country camping.

Yep, in winter.

And don’t forget the Hot Springs!

What better way to end a cold overnight or an active day than a warm soak? The Bozeman Hot Springs in Gallatin Valley has a large pool and features live music some nights. If heading to Mammoth Springs in north Yellowstone, you can stop enroute at Chico Hot Springs or stop at Yellowstone Hot Springs in Gardiner where you can soak in cold or hot pools ranging from 67-104 degrees.

You can even watch bears.

At Montana Grizzly Encounter you can watch bears play in the snow at the zoo-like enclosure where TV’s talented Brutus lives. But you might not see him. The owner, Casey Anderson, the host of National Geographic’s Expedition Wild, is careful to protect his 5 rescue bears from public display and alternates their visits daily. Casey is an ambassador for the bears and is keen on educating people about them. Located on on I-90, exit 319 on the highway leading east out of Bozeman toward Livingston.

4. Proximity for Further Adventures

Bozeman does make a handy base and jumping off point for ghost towns to the west, ranches to the east and Yellowstone in the south. This is where I’ve gone from Bozeman…

Livingston, Paradise Valley

Where the real cowboys live. Mountainous lands with massive cattle ranches, celebrity horse ranches and scenics so spectacular that Hollywood often frequents, scouting for movie sets. 

Contemporary wine bars, Mexican restaurants, upscale dining and trendy coffee shops inhabit tall brick buildings with faded murals of a distant era. Prestigious Western art galleries showcase bronze, oil and wood carvings around town stemming out from the historic 1902 Italianate train depot. Located 26 miles east of Bozeman, Livingston is also the turn off for heading 53 miles south to Gardiner, the northern entrance to Yellowstone.

Mammoth Springs, Yellowstone

The road to the Mammoth Springs Lodge remains open all year, unlike Old Faithful. Drive along Lamar Valley to spot elusive wildlife like moose, wolves and coyote. Or take a snow coach tour to my favorite spot—West Thumb. (Read more about my time at Mammoth Springs, Yellowstone.)

West Yellowstone

Access from the touristy town of West Yellowstone to Old Faithful is by snow coach shuttle or rented snowmobile. The Snow Lodge makes a good base for exploring the boardwalk around the geysers and steaming landscapes where bison roam. (Read more about my time exploring Old Faithful.)

Snowmobile to Two Top Mountain

Rent a snowmobile in the town of West Yellowstone and head up the mountain. Striking snow-covered trees appear like fantasy figures.

TRANSPORTATION

Fly into the small, but exceptional, Bozeman International airport impressively decorated in stacked stone and comfy leather sofas. Direct flights to Bozeman include Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Las Vegas, Minneapolis, Phoenix, Portland, Salt Lake City and Seattle on American Airlines, Delta, Alaskan and United. Discount carriers include JetBlue, Allegiant (from Vegas & Phoenix) and Frontier (from Denver).

Then, call your hotel shuttle. Or rent a car at the airport.

Going to Yellowstone? Reserve a seat on Karst Stagecoach. Takes 1.5 hours to reach West Yellowstone (to access Old Faithful) or Big Sky Ski Resort, and 2.5 hours to reach Gardiner or Mammoth Springs Lodge in north Yellowstone. I used them both trips and can attest they were professional, safe and on time.

LODGING

Guest ranches, B&B, hostels, cabins, hotels, motels, lodges, vacation rentals, resorts. You name it. Bozeman has it.

I usually seek out locally owned inns, but have to admit I loved my stay at the Best Western Plus Grantree Inn on the northern side of town. In fact, I enjoyed it so much that I canceled the remainder of my 3 night stay at the end of my Yellowstone trip back to here after one night at a local inn downtown. Some of the perks include a free shuttle to the airport or downtown (dinner, theatre, bars without having to drive), room service, excellent onsite restaurant with yummy omelettes, a casino, pool, hot tub, in-room microwave/fridge (gas station food shop next door) and lots of free movie channels in a quiet comfy room. Very convenient place to stay if you don’t have a car.

What I didn’t care for in the unnamed downtown inn was paper thin walls (appalling that I could hear the desk clerk repeating credit card numbers loud and clear whenever tourists called in to make reservations), elevator music piped in so loud I had to turn my tv on to drown out the noise, and a hot tub that hadn’t been operating for 18 months (yet still beckoned guests to stay here on the web). So I left after one night. Best Western’s free shuttle driver happily picked me up from the parking lot and took me back to the Grantree Inn.

During another visit to Bozeman I had a rental car. So I ventured further and stayed in the Howlers Inn B&B nestled in the canyon of Bridger Mountains east of town. I loved my stay in their beautifully decorated log cabin, and enjoyed a quiet night upstairs room overlooking the wolves. Yes, wolves!

The owners of the inn keep rescue wolves in a sanctuary, and guests are allowed to watch them through the enclosures. The inn also has a game room with pool, a hot tub, sauna and fitness equipment. Located 15 miles from the airport, or 3 miles after the turn off for the Montana Grizzly Encounter, it is not close to restaurants. Knowing this in advance, I stopped to shop at the Co-op and reheated food in my guestroom’s microwave. The location may feel a little remote, but it is a gorgeous drive with epic scenery everywhere you look.

Next time I’d love to stay even longer and reserve a stay in one of the area resorts or ranches. Because there WILL be a next time. Bozeman is that cool.

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