Whirlwind Girl’s trip in Paris

Although our time in this magical city was limited to 40 hours, my daughter and I breezed through iconic sites like the Louvre & Eiffel Tower, took a cooking class, explored Montmartre district and met fashion designers on a personalized shopping trip. Here’s our itinerary from our girl’s trip in Paris, plus tips for making this your reality!

 

Day One of our girl’s trip in Paris

Our overnight flight from the US arrived in Paris–over an hour late– at 2:45pm. (There are 2 international airports, we arrived at CDG.) We chose to stay at the Sheraton airport hotel for its location since it was steps away from where we landed AND the train station inside Terminal 2C where we needed to catch an early 6am train for Provence. Plus it had another train that headed into the city. Perfect.

We checked into our room, freshened up, then rode the escalator to the lower level to buy tickets for the local RER B train which departs from the platform every 15 minutes. Attendants were present to expedite the process of using the kiosks to purchase tickets. The train took 40 minutes to reach Chatelet Les Halles station, and from there it was a ten-minute walk to reach our first destination.

 

4:30pm LOUVRE

This massive art museum is chock full of every kind of art imaginable and spreads across several buildings. We had tickets for 4:30pm, the last entry slot of the day, even though the Louvre was open until 9:45pm today being Friday.

Tips: Preview their online museum map in advance to decide what areas to visit if short on time. Buy your ticket in advance to skip the lines! Timed entry. Open late on Fridays. Onsite dining options include casual cafes to the striking, but spendy, Café Marly facing the glass pyramid for dinner with a view.

Highlights for us included a peek at the Mona Lisa and the stunning canvas spreading across the opposite wall, the sculpture gardens, paintings in assorted wings and the intricate ceilings that were sometimes as impressive as the art below.

Some of my favorites…

Even the walkways were beautiful around Cour Napoléon, the central courtyard where the glass pyramid is located.

 

8pm EIFFEL TOWER

This iconic site lights up at night, and sparkles for five minutes on the hour. So of course we wanted to visit at night! We were not successful snagging tickets to zip up the elevator to the very top when they went on sale 2 months prior. But did secure timed tickets to ascend the 2^nd level by stairs when tickets became available a week in advance.

Tips: Elevator tickets sell out in mere minutes during summer months when they go on sale 2 months prior to the day at midnight. You’ll need to change the time on your computer to Paris time or you won’t have a chance. Then, be ready to pounce on their official site ten minutes early and keep trying until the screen shows they’re all sold out. (Tickets sold out a few minutes before midnight when we tried.) They open up more tickets 7 days prior to your visit—but no elevator access—just stairs to the 2^nd level. These too sell out within minutes.

If you don’t snag any online tickets, you will have to stand in line (up to 2 hours) and ascend the stairs immediately (no coming back at an appointed time). Be careful what you take, as the security check point limits backpacks or large bags, knives, food/drink. Oh, and this was a surprise–even padlocks! Jordan had to leave her padlock that secured her backpack from pickpockets with the security guard who threw it into the trash can.

In our jet-lagged confusion, we hurried to the Eiffel Tower from the Louvre thinking our timed tickets were for 8pm when in reality they were for 9:30pm. Neither of us had been successful sleeping on the plane. The lack of sleep plus the 7-hour time difference was clearly affecting our mental clarity. We had originally planned to stand in line at 8pm to see if we could get elevator tickets to the top…but rushing from the Louvre to the site we forgot that part and thought our timed tickets were for 8pm. Laughing at our blank confusion, the attendant waved us up the stairs when we presented our paper tickets, and up we went.

I’m glad we didn’t wait until later to ascend! The 674 metal stairs take a while to reach the 2^nd level, and you want time to appreciate the views before they start disappearing in the dark. And to explore both levels.

While we were up there, it began to rain and the temp dropped fast. There was nowhere to escape the cold as shops and snack kiosks were starting to close. Hmmm…we could tuck into Madame Brasserie, the new Parisian restaurant headed by Michelin starred Chef Thierry Marx on the first floor, but we had no reservations.

When we inquired, we were ushered right in. Plush turquoise chairs faced panoramic scenes over the Seine and Trocadero. Our first meal in Paris, and what a view!

Our prix fixe meal included a starter and entree. Savoring succulent lamb, we watched boats traveling the Seine River below. And tried to identify some of the buildings twinkling in the distance. Clink, clink…welcome to Pareee! Darkness quickly set in as the sun set. At ten o’clock we stood on the 2nd level watching the Eiffel sparkle, as the Tower gleamed gold in all her glory.

Descending the stairs was a bit tricky due to the blinding lights in our eyes as we strained to see the metal stairs, but there was a sturdy hand railing to guide the way. Back on ground we joined a crowd standing on the perimeter of the site to watch it sparkle on the hour again. Magical!

Now we were faced with getting home. Train or Uber? Train to our airport hotel would’ve required first catching the metro to the 4^th stop at Notre-Dame then buying an airport train ticket back to CDG Terminal 2. But we were exhausted and not up for navigating the unfamiliar route nor fending off pickpockets at this late hour. An Uber responded immediately and delivered us directly to our hotel forty minutes later.

 

Day Two of our girl’s trip in Paris

10am CROISSANT COOKING CLASS in Montmartre

At 8:30am, we took the RER B train back into the city, this time getting off at the busy Gare du Nord station. The location of our class, Cook’n with Class, was in Arr 18, along the northern border of the Montmartre district. To save 25 minutes walking time from the train station, we took another Uber for the 6 minute trip. We spotted a nearby patisserie and devoured an egg tart before nibbling carbs in class.

Cook’n with Class offers a variety of English-speaking classes throughout the week, from 2 hour mini classes making croissants or chocolates to lengthy intensive ones.

Chef Sarah led our small group of 7 through the steps of making croissants and pain au chocolat, and didn’t let anyone off the hook from getting their hands dirty.

 Using humor and clear instructions, she directed us as if we were aspiring chefs. I had no idea croissants normally take 3 days to make. Look at our final results!

Then it was time to sample some warm from the oven. Yum…melt in your mouth flaky, buttery croissants and that Paris staple, pain au chocolat. Passing on rose wine (welcome to France lol) we  instead drank coffee or water, boxed up the remainder of our pastries and went on our merry way. What a fun way to begin our day.

 

12:30pm MONTMARTRE WALKING TOUR

After class, we walked 15 minutes south to explore Montmartre, a bohemian art district once home to Picasso, Renoir, Monet and Van Gogh. Our first stop was the gorgeous Sacre-Coeur Basilica. Perched majestically on a hill overlooking Paris, this iconic Roman-Byzantine monument took 50 years to build. It’s a must see!

Outside, a terrace is a popular spot for scenic overviews of the city. Just be alert of your surroundings.

Tip: beware teamwork scams robbing tourists blind at popular tourist sites—smiling girls asking you to sign a petition or people trying to tie friendship bracelets on your wrist. Brush off both or you’ll be sorry.

There was a long line to enter (free) but moved fairly fast. So stunning inside! Time slides by when absorbed by the beauty of this place.

From the Basilica, we walked to the nearby artist enclave at Place du Tertre and briefly watched people having their portraits painted. Then wandered onward past the pink Maison Rose café, a vineyard, Renoir’s former house at 12 Rue Cortot (now a museum), and Cabaret Au Lapin Agile where Picasso was a frequent guest.

Back at Maison Rose we walked down Rue l’Abreuvoir, a picturesque street curving past singer Dalida’s bust, a strange sculpture of a man emerging from a wall (quick detour on Marcel Ayme), and a windmill.

Heading south from here, we ended up at the Abbesses Metro station in a leafy square with a carousel and creperies.

The walking tour took a little longer than anticipated. So we ran out of time to ride the metro here (green line: get off at 3^rd stop) to see the incredible Galeries Lafayette shopping mall that looks more like an art gallery with its Art Nouveau Dome architecture. Would’ve been a great place to grab a quick lunch and enjoy rooftop panoramic views of the city too.

But alas, it was nearly 2:30pm and we were on a time crunch, yet again…

 

3:30pm MEET FASHION DESIGNERS on a PERSONAL SHOPPING TOUR

I’m no fashionista. But what better way to celebrate a girl’s trip in Paris than shopping with a personal stylist and fashion blogger? How often do you get to tag along with someone who would introduce us to French designers and their clothing lines? And hear their feedback about what clothes best fit our body type?

The 3 hour tour takes place in the Haut Marais neighborhood, in the 3rd Arrondissement. Home to some of Paris’s most skilled artisans and fashion designers, many of whom create products right here in their atelier workshops. Boutique stores and independent art galleries have reclaimed former bakeries and factories, turning this district into a trendy hotspot where locals go to shop.

We booked this experience with Aneta through Tours with Locals. Weeks prior to meeting her, we sent in pictures, measurements and answers to her questions about our preferences and sense of style. Based on our feedback, she chose 3 designers for us to meet and collaborated with them, selecting items for us to try on in advance.

Traveling here from Montmartre’s 18^th Arr would take 20 minutes by Uber– our app claimed. That meant we’d arrive 45 minutes early with time to grab a quick bite before our shopping experience began. But that was a mistake. We should’ve taken the Metro instead. Lesson learned.

Tips: Traveling underground by metro or train is guaranteed to keep moving…whereas cars can double or triple your travel time.  (I should’ve known. Years ago, caught in traffic on a shuttle bus between airports, I missed the last flight that day to the south of France.)

 

A protest about the upcoming election had broken out enroute to our destination, and traffic slowed to a snail’s crawl before it stopped altogether. We sat in the Uber watching 30 minutes disappear. When our driver suggested that we get out and grab another Uber on the other side of the congestion, we did. But the same thing happened on the other side. Meanwhile, we frantically kept in communication with Aneta.

She told us that this happens all the time in Paris. Not to worry! On her 3^rd text, she gave us a different address to begin our tour, away from the chaos. We arrived nearly two hours later—after aborting our 2nd Uber and just walking there, using Google maps.

At 4:20pm, we met Aneta and designer Mari Samvelyan at her boutique shop Koshka.

I loved her clothes which she ‘makes for real women’ and not pencil thin models. She had selected different clothes for Jordan and I in advance, and had them on racks. Jordan’s rack had vivid colors and busy designs with a much younger vibe whereas my rack had more classic styles with a few surprising choices like a printed silk blouse of wearable art of her father’s abstract oil painting.

Her designs were flattering. Side-zipped denim trousers with gold sailor buttons fit like a glove. And a sheer black fabric blouse with tiny gold buttons casually tucked in at the waist completed the look. Her signature pleated trench coat with ties gathered at the sleeves was an instant hit the moment I tried it on. Girly. Sophisticated. And oh, so French.

Her knit sweaters were also beautiful.

It was fun to try on outfits we wouldn’t normally consider and hear feedback from both the stylist and designers about ways to wear the different clothes/accessories to accent specific features unique to you.

The next shop, Erotokrito5, featured the designs of two men who marry a seersucker-type material with knit wear. Again, they had pre-selected options for each of us, and we tried them on. “How does it make you feel,” was the question we were often asked. Although I admired their clothes, individual pieces neither fit nor felt right on my body type. But Jordan fell in love with a pair of flared black denim jeans with interesting seams.

We skipped a designer at an atelier where they make leather bags from jackets, due to time. Aneta ended our tour at Les Marais to see what vintage clothes, scarves and accessories were currently available. I bought a chestnut-colored ruffled cap sleeve knit top. And then it was time to go as these shops had graciously stayed open longer than normal for us on a Saturday evening!

Tip: don’t forget to have VAT refund paperwork filled out at the shop and put the receipt in the corresponding envelope as you may need to show this at the airport.  

After that it was kind of a blur. We had all sorts of things on our wish list to see, but getting around takes longer than you think. We walked a lot…

The Pantheon was now closed. And we were still hungry, having missed lunch. We took the Metro to Notre Dame and walked around that area before deciding to stop in at Café de Flores, a popular spot where writers congregated in the 19^th century.

 

8:30pm APERTIF at CAFÉ de FLORES

We intended to have an appetizer and drink (hot chocolate for Jordan and pastis for me), but the prosciutto starter I pointed to on the menu arrived as a fancy champagne drink instead. Okay…?

For dinner I had my heart set on trying one of the twelve historic Bouillon restaurants in Paris. Popular among blue-collar workers in the 1800s, these Art Nouveau gems are becoming trendy again. Citing claims for their quick service and hearty affordable French food, I convinced Jordan to stand in the long line outside Bouillon Chartier, a 1903 classic in the Montparnasse district (Arr 6). At this point we would have a long wait anywhere we went.

 

10:30pm DINNER at BOUILLON CHARTIER

Still standing in line, but nearing the entrance, an attendant asked if we’d be willing to share a table. Yes! That used to be the tradition here after all. Workers sat side-by-side at long tables. So we were gestured inside along with two other females in line. Turns out they were locals who operated a podcast about “Amazing Women” who have made significant contributions historically. They were fascinating to talk to, and our conversation flowed easily.

Waiters in trousers and long white aprons scurried around the lavishly decorated interior, taking orders and writing what they delivered on the paper tablecloth.

Jordan and I ordered starters of escargots and herring, followed by lamb confit and grilled sea bass. Ummm, delish! Probably should’ve skipped dessert as it was quite late and we had a very early train to catch in the morning….but it was fun to dine with locals and hear the inside scoop from them so we ordered dessert, rice pudding and stewed apples, to keep talking. The entire 3 course meal for 2 people was only 42 euros. An incredible value for Paris.

Hailing an Uber for a direct route back to our airport hotel, we cringed when we saw our arrival time: 1:15am. So much for an early night. We quickly packed up our suitcases and set our alarm for 5:30am. Thank goodness the fast train to Provence was so close—basically beyond the hotel lobby and down the escalator—saving us an hour travel time had we stayed in the city.

Trying to quiet my mind to sleep, the activities and places from the last day and a half whirred by. What a whirlwind it had been!

Sure, it would’ve been nice to have one more day and relax our pace a bit… But despite those sleepless nights, I wouldn’t change a thing we shared on our girl’s trip in Paris. Shopping, admiring art, baking croissants and climbing the Eiffel together…what better way to bond with your best friend, Mom or daughter?

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